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Soups and
Consommes
of the
D FAMOUS CHEFS ted States Canada Europe
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The Soup and Consomme Book
From the
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INTERNATIONAL COOKING LIBRARY
Compiled and Edited by A. C. HOFF
is by Louis Stent
Los At; 'It.
International Publishing Co. 1914
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Soups and
Consommes
of the
WORLD FAMOUS CHEFS
United States
Canada
Europe
The Soup and Consomme Book
From the
INTERNATIONAL COOKING LIBRARY
Compiled and Edited by A. C. HOFF
Translations by Louis Sterzer, Los Angeles
Los Angeles, Cal.
International Publishing Co.
1914
301c
TX757
COMPILED, EDITED AND COPYRIGHTED
BY
A. C. HOFF
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
1914
OCT 13 »9I4
!CU380835
CONTRIBUTORS
Emile Bailly, Chef Hotel St. Regis New York City
Jean S. Berdou, Chef Hotel Astor New York City
Jean Millon, Chef Ritz-Carlton New York City
Henri Berger, Chef Frankfurter-Hof Frankfurt, Germany
Jules Kohler, Chef Hotel Adlon Berlin, Germany
G. Milhau, Chef Tait-Zinkand Cafe San Francisco
Adrian Delvaux, Chef Hotel Baltimore Kansas City
Otto Geutsch, Chef Hotel Windsor Montreal
Joseph C. Campazzi, Chef. . . ..Royal Poinciana Palm Beach
E. C. Perault, Chef Planters Hotel St. Louis
John Chiappano, Chef Auditorium Hotel Chicago
Geo. R. Meyer, Chef Rector's Cafe Chicago
Gerard Embregts, Chef Chateau Frontenac Quebec
Louis Pfaff, Chef New Willard Hotel Washington
Henry Johannsen, Chef Hotel Royal Palm Miami
Victor Hirtzler, Chef Hotel St. Francis San Francisco
Emile Burgermeister, Chef. . .Hotel Fairmont San Francisco
Martin Ginder, Chef Hotel Green Pasadena
Joseph Stoltz, Chef Hotel Ponce de Leon St. Augustine
Henri Boutroue, Chef Hotel Shelbourne Dublin, Ireland
Thos. Cooney, Chef Van Nuys Hotel Los Angeles
Jules Dauviller, Chef Palace Hotel San Francisco
Arthur Taylor, Chef Hotel Raymond Pasadena
Ernest Otzenberger, Chef. . . Hotel Dennis Atlantic City
Cesar Obrecht, Chef Grand Hotel de L'Europe Lucerne, Switzerland
Jules Boucher, Chef Arlington Hotel Hot Springs
Chas. Grolimund, Chef Washington Hotel Seattle
Jean Juillard, Chef Hotel Adolphus Dallas
Chas. Pier Giorgi, Chef Hotel Alcazar St. Augustine
Peter Bona, Chef Hotel Chamberlain Fortress Monroe
Louis Lescarboura, Chef Ft. Pitt Hotel Pittsburgh
John Pfaff, Chef Hotel Cape May Cape May
Walter Jurenz, Chef Hotel Galvez Galveston
S. B. Pettengill, Chef Hotel Ormond Ormond Beach
Geo. E. Schaaf, Chef Hotel Albany Denver
Ben E. Dupaquier, Chef Hotel Arlington Santa Barbara
William Leon Benzeni, Chef.. Hotel Virginia Long Beach
Chas. A. Frey, Chef Hotel Alexandria Los Angeles
Lucien Fusier, Chef Grand Hotel Metropole. . .Interlaken, Switzer- land
G. Cloux, Chef U. S. Grant Hotel San Diego
A. Schloettke, Chef Westminster Hotel Dresden, Germany
Lucien Raymond, Chef Hotel Congress & Annex. .Chicago
Louis Thein, Chef Hotel Utah Salt Lake City
Jules Edward Bole, Chef Hotel Jefferson St. Louis
John Bicochi, Chef Hotel Piedmont Atlanta
Edw. R. J. Fischel, Steward. .Hotel Piedmont Atlanta
Leopold Saux, Steward Hotel Grunewald New Orleans
Henri D. Fouilloux, Steward St. Charles Hotel New Orleans
Wouw Renowned Hotel,/1
preface
In presenting to the public this book on SOUPS AND CON- SOMMES we feel that we are presenting the most complete author- itative and up-to-date book ever prepared on the subject. The con- tributors being the finest chefs in the United States, Canada and Europe insure every recipe shown as right. These world-famous chefs have given us their special recipes, and they have made the explanations so plain and so complete that any one can readily understand them.
The great chefs who have prepared these recipes for us have all made cooking their life work and have been apprenticed under the finest and most practical teachers in the culinary lines in this country and abroad.
A large portion of the copy has been translated from the French. The finest chefs are generally the French or Swiss. They are not literary men; their language is not flowery, but we know that even with the difficulty that exists in expressing in English many of the French terms that the work as a whole will be easily understood and greatly appreciated.
This is the first time in history that such a wonderful collection of recipes have been made obtainable for general use. These men are giving, in these recipes, their "professional secrets." The calibre of the men who have prepared these recipes is great and represents as much as the great masters in other lines of the world's work. Napoleon Bonaparte was a great general; Shakespeare, a great author; George Washington, a wonderful statesman; and Thomas Edison, a masterful inventor; — but we feel that the master chefs represented here are to be considered just as great and doing just as much of the world's work as any of the famous men we have all been taught to revere and respect.
The International Cooking Library, covering in twelve volumes every conceivable part, section or angle of the cooking question, makes it possible for any one who will follow these recipes to be an expert cook. The great masters who have prepared these recipes have spent their
Their Ch ek/-Our Contributor/I
lives studying and experimenting and are giving in these recipes their best ideas and suggestions. These are dishes of the millionaires and the most particular epicureans.
We feel that this set of books is presented to the public at just the opportune time. All people are beginning to realize that there is really no more important art than cooking and this should be so; for what should be considered more important than what we eat? The best health insurance is having the right kind of foods, properly prepared. A man is at his best only when he is in robust health and nothing will undermine a person's constitution so quickly as poor food. The best dishes and the sure and absolute recipes for making them, are contained in this wonderful set of books. All the copy is from authorities just as positive and just as sure in this line as the noted Blackstone was on legal lines. We picked the best chefs in the world; we would accept copy from no others.
A careful study of the recipes and careful application of the directions for same is all that is necessary to produce the results that have made these men famous.
In the presentation of this book, we wish only that space would allow us to mention and pay courtesy to the many men who have assisted us in the various departments, copy preparation, translation, and editing, also the courtesies rendered by the managers of the world renowned hotels whose chefs have been our contributors.
INTERNATIONAL BOOK PUBLISHING COMPANY
S^^^O^toiiiTOR/|
World Renowned Hotel/
THEIRCHERZ-OURfONTPI BUTOR/
QJjjgLp Renowned Hotel?
index
LECTURE ON SOUPS AND CONSOMMES
THOS. COONEY, Chef de Cuisine, HOTEL VAN NUYS, Los Angeles, Calif 13
HOW TO MAKE GENERAL STOCK PUREE OF TOMATOES
CONSOMME TOMATO GUMBO CREOLE
CHICKEN STOCK PUREE OF SPLIT PEAS
CHICKEN BROTH MADRILENE VEAL BROTH OR STOCK
CHICKEN BROTH BELLEVUE MOCK TURTLE
CHICKEN BROTH CREOLE ENGLISH BEEF BROTH
FAMILY STYLE CONEY ISLAND CLAM CHOWDER
ROUX BOSTON CLAM CHOWDER
MULLIGATAWNEY GREEN TURTLE AMOUTILLADO
LAMB BROTH PUREE MONGOLE
SCOTCH LAMB BROTH CREAM OF CELERY
HOCHE POT OR HOTCH POTCH VEGETABLE SOUP
ASPARAGUS BOUILLON POTATO AND LEEK SOUP NO. 1
TOMATO BOUILLON POTATO AND LEEK SOUP NO. 2
ONION SOUP AU GRATIN ADRIAN DELVAUX, Chef rte Cuisine, HOTEL BALTIMORE, Kansas Citv, Mo.. . 24 ( EICKEN BROTH, WINDSOR POTAGE A LA BONNE FEMME CLAM BROTH IN CUP WTITH WHIPPED CREAM CREAM VELOURS OF TOMATO AUX PERLES TAPIOCA ESSENCE OF BEEF
LOUIS THEIN, Chef de Cuisine, HOTEL UTAH, Salt Lake City, Utah 25
CREAM OF TOMATO POTAGE PROVENCALE
POTAGE AUX LENTILLES, MONTAGNARDE
W ALTER JLRFNZ, Chef de Cuisine, HOTEL GALVEZ, Galveston, Tex 27
GERMAN LIVER DUMPLING SOUP LENTIL SOUP, FARMER STYLE BISQUE OF CRAWFISH— GULF STYLE •
GEO. R. MEYER, Chef de Cuisine, RECTOR'S CAFE, Chicago, 111 2s
TOMATO CONSOMME SOUVERAINE
JOHN PFAFF, Chef de Cuisine, HOTEL CAPE MAY, Cape May, N. J 30
STRAINED GUMBO IN CUPS
LEOPOLD SAUX, Steward, HOTEL GRUNEWALD, New Orleans, La 30
CRAWFISH BISQUE, CREOLE
GEORGE E. SCHAAF, Chef de Cuisine, HOTEL ALBANY, Denver, Colo 32
TOMATO BOUILLON EN PASSE CREAM OF CHICKEN SOUP WITH ASPARAGUS HENRI D. FOUILLOUX, Steward, HOTEL ST. CHARLES, New Orleans, La. . . 33 CLEAR GREEN TURTLE SOUP
HENRI BOUTROUE. Chef de Cuisine, HOTEL SHELBOURNE, Dublin, Ire 154
CONSOMME, CHANCELIER POTAGE LONDONDERRY
ARTHUR TAYLOR, Chef de Cuisine, HOTEL RAYrMOND, Pasadena, Calif 34
GUMBO A LA SAM WARD LUCIEN RAYMOND, Chef de Cuisine, HOTEL CONGRESS AND ANNEX,
Chicago, HI 35
CREME DE VOLAILLE .MARIE STUART CONSOMME CYRANO
HENRI BERGER, Chef de Cuisine, FRANKFURTER-HOF, Frankfurt, Germany. 35 CONSOMME— RICH EN TASSE
10
BtheirCher/QurContributor/
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LOUIS LESCARBOURA, Chef de Cuisine, HOTEL FT. PITT, Pittsburg, Pa 36
POTAGE BONNE FEMME GARBURE POLIGNAC
POT AU FEU HENRY IV. CHICKEN GUMBO GERMANINE
ONION SOUP NORSE CREAM OF MUSHROOMS
CONSOMME IN JELLY CREAM OF TAPIOCA
JEAN JUILLARD, Chef de Cuisine, HOTEL ADOLPHUS, Dallas, Tex 39
POTAGE SIDI BRAHIM POCHOUSE BOURGIGNONE
POTAGE VENDANGEUSE POTAGE SIMONETTE
PUMPKIN GRAND MERE PIGEON SOUP— FARMER STYLE
DEEP SEA CONSOMME VEGETABLE SOUP PROVANCALE
POTAGE A LTSEILLE JEUNE MARIEE CREAM OF DUCK LIVER VARSSOVIENNE
JOHN CHIAPPANO, Chef de Cuisine, AUDiTORIUM HOTEL, Chicago . . 41
BOUILLON BOSTONIENNE
GERARD EMBREGTS, Chef de Cuisine, HOTEL CHATEAU FRONTENAC,
Quebec, Canada ' 40
POTAGE A LA REINE POTAGE CHASSEUR (Hunter's Potagej '
PETER BONA, Chef de Cuisine, HOTEL CHAMBERLIN, Fortress Monroe Va 43 EGGS BOUILLON CLAM CHOWDER, VIRGINIA STYLE
CONSOMME SUEDOISE POTAGE A LA PIEDMONTESE
CONSOMME VERTE PRE CONSOMME A LA MONTE CARLO
CHAS. GROLIMUND, Chef de Cuisine, HOTEL NEW WASHINGTON, Seattle,
Wash 44
PHILADELPHIA PEPPER POT POTATO SOUP CHIFFONADE CONSOMME COLBERT FISH BROTH A LA WASHINGTON
S. B. PETTENGILL, Chef de Cuisine, HOTEL ORMOND, Ormond Beach, Fla 46 COQUINA CLAM BROTH POTAGE UNCLE SAM
HOT TOMATO BOUILLON IN CUPS
JOSEPH STOLTZ, Chef de Cuisine, HOTEL PONCE DE LEON, St. Augustine, Fla 47 TOMATO CHOWDER, VIRGINIENNE
CHAS. A. FREY, Chef de Cuisine, HOTEL ALEXANDRIA, Los Angeles, Calif 47
CHICKEN BROTH ALEXANDRIA, QUENELLES JEAN S. BERDOU, Chef de Cuisine, HOTEL ASTOR, New York City, N Y 4S
BISQUE D'HOMARD AMERICANE SOUPE AU CRESSOX'
EMILE BAILLY, Chef de Cuisine, HOTEL ST. REGIS, New York City, N. Y 49
CONSOMME PARFAIT BEN E. DUPAQUIER, Chef de Cuisine, HOTEL ARLINGTON, Santa Barbara, Cal 50
CONSOMME POTAGE PRINTAINIER
MARTIN GINDER, Chef de Cuisine, HOTEL GREEN, Pasadena, Calif .->!
TOMATO BROTH CREAM OF CHICKEN TAVERN
JULES DAUVILLER, Chef de Cuisine, HOTEL PALACE, San Francisco, Cal 52
BONED OXTAIL AYRSHIRE
JULES BOUCHER, Chef de Cuisine, HOTEL ARLINGTON, Hot Springs \vk f>3
BOUILLON EN TASSE CLEAR GREEN TURTLE'
EDW. R. J. FISCHEL, Steward, HOTEL PIEDMONT, Atlanta, Ga 54
CHICKEN GUMBO STRAINED IN CUP CHAS. PIER GIORGI, Chef de Cuisine, HOTEL ALCAZAR. St. Augustine, Fit 55 CHICKEN AND CELERY BOUILLON -OPORTO POTAGE— VICTORINE CESAR OBRECHT, Chef de Cuisine, GRAND HOTEL DE L'EUROPE, Lucerne,
Switz r,i i
CONSOMME PARFAIT
11
World Renowned Hotel/
in
ERNEST OTZENBERGER, Chef de Cuisine, HOTEL DENNIS, Atlantic City, X. J. 57
CREAM OF ASPARAGUS PUREE OF CUCUMBERS
CLARIFIED CHICKEN CONSOMMK
WILLIAM LEON BENZENI, Chef de Cuisine, HOTEL VIRGINIA, Long Beach, Cal. 52 ESSENCE OF TOMATO EN TASSE
LOUIS PFAFF, Chef de Cuisine, HOTEL NEW WILLARD, Washington, D. C. . . 58 STRAINED GUMBO CLEAR GREEN TURTLE
JULES KOHLER, Chef de Cuisine, HOTEL ADLON, Berlin, Germany 59
CONSOMME JACOBINE MOUSSELINE SICILIENNE
CONSOMME BEBAC
LUCIEN FUSIER, Chef de Cuisine, GRAND HOTEL METROPOLE, Interlaken,
Switz CO
CONSOMME ANDALOUS
VICTOR HIRTZLER, Chef de Cuisine, HOTEL ST. FRANCIS, San Francisco, Cal. 01 VELVET SOUP CHICKEN BROTH L'ORANGE
CONSOMME ADELE CREAM OF CHICKEN HORTENSF
CLAM BROTH PUREE OF SPLIT PEAS
PRINCESS SOUP CREAM OF POTATO SOUP
CREAM OF TOMATO SOUP, ST. FRANCIS
12
LECTURE ON SOUPS AND CONSOMMES
by Thomas Cooney
Chef de Cuisine, Hotel Van Nuys
Los Angeles, California
As soup is one of the most important items on a bill of fare or in the household, too much care cannot be taken in its preparation. To make good soup is easy, although few know how. Some cooks through lack of knowledge and some through carelessness compound a soup which is tasteless and flavorless and of no food value whatever, not differing very much from what some people rightfully call "suds." If soup is properly prepared and served, it starts the meal right and anything following it has a far better chance to please, wherein if soup is inferior, it has a very bad effect upon a guest, in fact making him peeved and no matter how you try to please him or her it will avail not if given a poor start; hence the necessity of making good soup. Soup on "Party Bills of Fare" should be regulated by the size of the bill. If a heavy bill of fare, a light soup or consomme; and on a light bill of fare, a heavy soup, cream, etc.
In the following article I will try as nearly as I can to define what, in my mind, is good soup and if directions are followed will prove satisfactory.
As to soup as a food, it has very little value although many claim much for it. From time to time, many writers have expressed different views on soup, but the principal nutrition lies entirely in the way it is prepared and not as we read about it, so it is up to the cook to make soup that is nutritious or otherwise; so take upon yourself the responsi- bility. If it is nutritious, it is to your credit, if not, you are to blame.
GENERAL STOCK Four pounds fresh beef shanks cracked, leaving all the meat on the bones, two pounds veal shanks, chicken trimmings, two carrots, Two turnips, three tomatoes, one leek, two onions and some celery peelings.
13
Have soup kettle on the stove with two gallons boiling water; plunge the bones into this, keeping the water boiling vigorously for five minutes, then draw back and let simmer for one hour (by plunging the soup bones into boiling water the most nutritious part of the meat is saved, namely, the albumen which, if the meat or bones were put into cold water and then brought to a boil would come to the top in skum and be thrown away), then add the vegetables cup up, also one table- spoonful of salt. Let simmer for four hours, take off the fire and strain through a soup towel made of fine cheese cloth. Set away in a stone crock in a cool place and when cold set in ice box for future use. This stock should always be made a day ahead.
CONSOMME
Have in a sauce pan one pound of chopped lean beef, one sliced carrot, half a leek, one stock celery, one bay leaf, two cloves, one whole spice, four beaten egg yolks, two ripe tomatoes, one tablespoonful of salt, and a little pepper. Mix thoroughly with a spatula adding one gallon of hot stock. Place on stove and bring slowly to a boil, stirring occasionally. When it begins to boil draw back and let simmer for two hours. Strain through a napkin into a stone crock; season to taste.
Consomme is at its best the day it is made, except for jellies or frappe. If consomme is left to set, when it is heated up again it tastes flat and loses its brilliant color or becomes dull. Consomme should be of a dark amber color, if not dark enough, add a little caramel or burnt sugar. To this, many cooks object, but we find in Williams' Chemistry of Life that caramel is very healthy, and advocates its use in sauces, etc. Uniformity is the standard of excellency. Consomme is service with many garnishings a la this or a la that, but the main body always remains the same.
Jellied consomme is very much appreciated on a hot day. First try consomme to be jellied by setting some in a glass and placing in chopped ice; let set and if not firm enough, add a little gelatine; bring to a boil, strain and set away to cool. If for frappe it should not be but slightly heavier than cold consomme.
14
CHICKEN STOCK
Singe, draw and wash well, three fowls. Have on the fire a soup kettle containing one and a half gallons of water boiling vigorously. Plunge the fowls into this and let boil three minutes. Draw back and let simmer, adding one leek, two stalks of celery, one spoonful salt, one medium sized carrot, one bay leaf and two whole peppers. Skim off any scum coming to the top and let cook for three hours or until the fowls are done.
Remove the fowls and let them stand in cold water for five minutes (by doing this the skin of the fowl remains soft when cold; if not put in cold water the skin gets dry and hard if left standing for any length of time) and set away for future use. If the broth is not strong enough, boil until required strength is attained; strain through a fine cheese cloth and set away in a stone crock for further use.
CHICKEN BROTH MADRILENE
Same as above, adding twelve ripe, peeled tomatoes, two chili and two bell peppers and one head celery, while cooking.
CHICKEN BROTH BELLEVUE
Wash well twenty-four clams. Put them in a sauce pan on the fire with just a little water. Cover tightly and let boil five minutes. Remove the cover and strain the juice through a napkin. Add one- third clam juice to two and two-thirds chicken broth or vice versa. If for Clam Bouillon Bellevue, serve in bouillon cups with whipped cream.
CHICKEN BROTH CREOLE
One chicken, boned and cut in dice; cut in julienne two leeks, two slices of Virginia ham, one onion cut small, three chili peppers and one bell pepper peeled, seeded and cut in strips, and a half crushed clove of garlic. Put all in a sauce pan with a quarter of a pound of butter, braise lightly, stirring occasionally for ten minutes. Then add one gallon of chicken broth and let cook for one hour. Have peeled and seeded six ripe tomatoes, cut up in one inch squares, and one quart of
15
cooked okras cut about one inch long; add to broth and season to taste. Do not boil again, but let simmer twenty minutes, lastly adding two cups of cooked rice and some parsley. Serve hot.
Some prefer to cook rice with soup, but it is not, to my idea, a good policy, as rice gets so soft and mushy when thus cooked.
FAMILY STYLE Cut up in small squares the breast of one raw fowl, one carrot, one turnip, one leek, one onion and one peeled and seeded bell pepper. Place in a sauce pan with some raw butter and set on the range. Braise lightly, then add one cooking spoonful of roux or thickening. Mix until smooth, add one gallon of hot chicken stock. Boil one hour, add some chopped parsley and a tablespoonful of chopped chives; season to taste. Serve hot.
ROUX
Roux is one of the most important elements in cooking and loo much care cannot be taken in its preparation. Many a fault in culinary can be traced to a roux improperly prepared.
Melt one pound of butter in a heavy sauce pan and use only the clarified part; add to it one pound of flour; stir thoroughly until smooth, cook for fifteen minutes on the range, stirring continually. Then cover the sauce pan and set it in a moderate oven for thirty minutes, stirring occasionally, when it will be ready for use. This will thicken two gallons of any liquid to a good heavy sauce (not soup) as soup is light and requires so much less.
For brown sauces or soups, continue the cooking of the roux until the proper color is attained from a light golden color to dark brown.
MULLIGATAWNEY
Cut in dice, two onions, two heads of celery, one peeled and seeded chili pepper and the breast of one raw fowl. Put all in a sauce pan with some drawn butter and braise ten minutes on a moderate fire; then add to it one large cooking spoonful of roux, mix until smooth, adding one gallon of chicken stock; season to taste and let cook one hour. Have peeled and cut in cubes, two apples sauted in a pan with
16
n
Their Special Soi/R5& Consommes
some butter three minutes, shaking continually. Then add to the soup with two tablespoonfuls of curry diluted in water and one cup cooked rice. Let simmer twenty minutes and serve. When using curry do not boil afterward, as it spoils the flavor.
LAMB BROTH
Take about six or seven lamb bones and place in a saucepan with enough cold water to cover, then set on the range and bring to a boil. Let cook five minutes, take them off and wash well. Place them again on the fire covered with water as before; bring to a boil and draw back ; let simmer for four hours adding two leeks, two medium sized onions, two carrots, two turnips and some celery peelings and a bouquet of parsley, skimming occasionally and keeping covered with water to make up for evaporation; now this broth should be clear. Take off and strain through a fine cloth and set away for further use. Many soups are made from this broth, the most popular being Scotch Hotch Potch and Scotch Lamb Broth.
SCOTCH LAMB BROTH
Cut up in dice four turnips, two leeks, one onion, two or three stalks of celery and one pound of lean lamb or mutton. Place the vegetables in a sauce pan with some drawn butter and set on the range. Let cook slowly stirring occasionally. Then take the diced lamb or mutton and plunge it into boiling water. Let boil one minute, take it out, wash off and add to the vegetable. Let all cook together for fifteen minutes, then add one cupful of Scotch oats and a little roux; mix thoroughly until smooth, adding one gallon of hot, but not boiling lamb broth. Let cook two hours slowly; skim off any impurities com- ing to the top, season to taste and when ready to serve, add a little chopped chives and parsley.
HOCHE POT OR HOTCH POTCH
This was a favorite soup of Edward the Seventh. Cut in dice, about an inch square, one pound of lean lamb or mutton. Cut in julienne or strips, two leeks, half a hard head of cabbage, and one head of celery. Place the vegetables in a sauce pan with some raw butter and set on
17
World Fam<w Chert
the range. (Follow the same rule as in Scotch broth with diced mutton.) Let cook for fifteen minutes and add to it one gallon of clear lamb broth. Let cook an hour, adding one teacupful of cooked string beans, one cup of freshly cooked garden peas and one cup of fleurettes of cauliflower; season to taste and let simmer for twenty minutes more. Skim off the grease, add a spoonful of chopped chives and serve hot.
ASPARAGUS BOUILLON
This bouillon is best made from canned asparagus. Add the contents of two cans of asparagus, juice and all, to half a gallon of chicken broth. Season and boil ten minutes. Strain through a fine cloth, forcing as much of the asparagus through as possible. This bouillon is fine served cold on a hot day.
TOMATO BOUILLON Two dozen ripe sound tomatoes, one leek, three chili peppers, one bell pepper, two stalks of celery, one onion tied in a cloth, three cloves, two bay leaves, three whole spices and some parsley; add one gallon chicken broth, set on the range, bring to a boil, draw back and let simmer for two hours. Season to taste. If too tart, add a little baking powder. Take off and strain through a fine strainer and afterwards through a cheese cloth. It should be of a nice red color. This is excellent served hot or cold.
PUREE OF TOMATOES
Cut in slices two onions, one head celery, one carrot, two chili peppers, one bell pepper, a small veal shank and a small ham bone. Place all in a sauce pan with some drawn butter and a kitchen bouquet containing the following ingredients; three cloves, four whole peppers and two bay leaves tied in a linen cloth. Braise for twenty minutes, then add to the amount of one gallon of peeled sound ripe tomatoes and a half gallon of general stock; bring to a boil and let simmer for two hours, stirring occasionally. Season to taste, adding a little baking powder to neutralize the acid and a little sugar; strain through a fine strainer and set again on the range in a clean sauce pan; bring to a boil. Have ready six tablespoonfuls of cornstarch diluted in cold chicken
18
broth or water will do if chicken broth is not handy. Add this to the soup, gradually stirring continually with a whip until it is of the required consistency. If for cream of tomatoes, make a little heavier or thicker, let boil two minutes after adding the thickening. Take off and strain through a fine cheese cloth. It is now ready for use as a soup or sauce.
For Cream of Tomato, add one-third good hot cream to two- thirds tomato puree; let come to a boil, working in with a spoon, one ounce of hard or raw butter. Serve Crouton souffle.
TOMATO GUMBO CREOLE
Cut in strips, three chili peppers, one leek, three bell peppers and half a pound of cooked ham; place in a sauce pan with some butter, on the stove; braise ten minutes, then add a quart of chicken broth and three quarts puree of tomatoes. Mix thoroughly, bring to a boil, let simmer one hour, then add one quart of cooked okra including the liquor in which it was cooked, and one cup of cooked rice. Season to taste and serve hot.
PUREE OF SPLIT PEAS
Put in a sauce pan with some drawn butter, one sliced onion, one carrot, two stalks of celery, a kitchen bouquet as previously explained, one leek, half a pound of salt pork cut in small dice and blanched, and one ham bone. Place on the range and braise for twenty minutes, stirring occasionally, then add one pound of washed and soaked split peas and one gallon general stock. Boil slowly for three hours, stirring occasionally. Season to taste. Take off and remove the ham bone and bouquet and strain through a fine sieve. Put again into a clean sauce pan and set on the range and if too thick, dilute with stock. Work in some two or three pieces of cold butter and serve hot, (When the soup has been boiling about one hour, add a spoonful of roux, this keeps it together and makes it smooth.)
VEAL BROTH OR STOCK
Proceed as for lamb broth, using veal bones.
For demi glace or brown sauce, brown veal broth forms the greater part and is made as follows: Two good sized ham shanks, two
19
World Famous Cher/1
pounds veal bones chopped up and placed in a roasting pan in a moder- ate oven with some carrots, onions, celery and leeks cut up. Let cook gradually until of a deep brown color, then turn the whole into a sauce pan and cover with stock (after the stock has come to a boil in the pan the bones were cooked in), add some chili and bell peppers, also a good sized kitchen bouquet. Let cook six hours, adding some tomatoes, say one gallon to four gallons of stock. Take off and strain through a cloth. Place again on the range in a clean sauce pan and thicken with brown roux, say one pound to three gallons. Mix thoroughly, let cook one hour, stirring occasionally and season by adding one cup of walnut catsup, one cup mushroom catsup and about a pint of meat. Glace and mix thoroughly, then take off and strain through a cheese cloth. It should be of a light brown color, smooth and clear as many soups and sauces are made from this. Any one particular flavor should be easily imparted. The great trouble in many cases is that too much tomato is used, thus making it bitter and the imparting of any one particular flavor to a brown soup or sauce becomes an impossibility.
MOCK TURTLE
Procure one nice clean white calf's head; skin and cut in pieces about four inches square; remove all the lean from the inside and cook with lemon and spices. When cold, cut up six of these pieces in dice about a quarter of an inch square and add to a stock composed of two quarts of demi glace and two quarts of consomme. Boil for one hour; season to taste. Flavor with sherry and lastly two chopped eggs and half a lemon peeled and seeded. Serve hot. The consomme to be used in this soup should be made from veal broth.
ENGLISH BEEF BROTH Cut in dice two carrots, two onions, one leek, one pound lean beef cut in dice about half an inch square, and one cup barley washed. Place all in a sauce pan with some butter and set on the range. Let cook fifteen minutes, stirring occasionally, then add one-third brown sauce and two-thirds consomme of beef. Let boil one hour, skim off, season to taste, flavor with sherry, besprinkle with parsley and serve.
20
TtiBiE Special Soupj&Comjmmes
CONEY ISLAND CLAM CHOWDER
To one quart of fresh opened clams, add one quart of water; bring to a boil, skim -off and strain through a napkin. Then cut up in dice a quarter of a pound of salt pork and place in a sauce pan. Set on the range and let slightly brown with one onion, one chili pepper, one bell pepper and a couple of stalks of celery cut in dice. Cook for fifteen minutes, stirring occasionally, then add the clam broth with an equal amount of chicken broth. Let cook slowly for thirty minutes; season to taste, adding a little sage, thyme and cayenne pepper. Then cut in dice two good sized Irish potatoes, eight ripe peeled and seeded tomatoes, add to the soup and let boil until the potatoes are cooked. Draw back and skim off the grease and lastly add the clams and a little chopped parsley. After adding the clams do not boil as this makes the clams tough.
BOSTON CLAM CHOWDER
Proceed as for Coney Island Chowder, but before putting in the clam broth, add two cooking spoonfuls of roux. Mix thoroughly until smooth, then add the clam and chicken broth. Season to taste. Let boil thirty minutes and add the potatoes cut in dice and when they are cooked, add one quart of hot cream; bring to a boil, then add the clams. It should be of the consistency of a heavy cream. Serve hot.
GREEN TURTLE AMONTILLADO (Thick) Mix two quarts of good consomme with two quarts of brown sauce, and add to it one can of turtle meat cut in dice, accompanied with its liquor. Season to taste, flavor with Amontillado. Let cook fifteen minutes and add two chopped eggs and half a lemon, peeled, seeded and cut in very thin slices. Serve hot.
For clear Green Turtle, add the diced turtle meat and liquor to a good consomme. Flavor with Amontillado or sherry. Cook ten minutes and serve in bouillon cups.
PUREE MONGOLE Cut in julienne, two carrots, two leeks and a couple of stalks of good celery. Put in a sauce pan with a quarter of a pound of butter
21
World Famouj1 CriERf
and braise for ten minutes, stirring. Then add two quarts of tomato sauce and two quarts puree of split peas. Let boil one hour, adding half a can of French peas. Season to taste. Serve hot.
CREAM OF CELERY
Slice one carrot, two turnips, two leeks, one onion and half a gallon celery cut fine. Place in a sauce pan with some drawn butter and braise for twenty minutes. Then add one gallon general stock previously thickened with two cooking spoonfuls of roux. Let all cook two hours, season to taste, take off and strain through a fine sieve. Place again on the range in a clean sauce pan and have hot one quart of cream; add this to the soup with two or three pats of butter worked in Willi a spoon. It is now ready to serve.
While some culinary writers advocate using a laison of egg yolks to thicken cream soup before serving, I do not believe it is practical, for if after adding the laison the soup boils, the egg yolks curdle and any amount of straining will not make the cream soup look smooth again. So many cooks make a great mistake in serving cream soup too heavy or too thick; especially to first class trade, thick soup is repulsive. A cream soup should be of the consistency of good cream, not any heavier.
All cream soups are made as Cream of Celery, using the different ingredients such as cauliflower, barley or such instead of celery. No set time can be given for cooking soup; seasoning of soup is a matter hard to define; seasoning can always be added, but never removed.
In cooking soup stocks or stews, the boiling point registers 212 degrees. It cannot be made any hotter than this, so don't boil all the flavor and aroma away by letting it boil vigorously all the time. Let it drop to say 180 degrees and you will save much of the flavor thrown away in steam. It may take a little longer, but it is worth while.
VEGETABLE SOUP
Cut in julienne, three carrots, three turnips, three leeks, one head
of cabbage and two onions cut fine. Set on the fire with some drawn
butter; braise for twenty minutes, stirring occasionally. Then add to
it, one gallon general stock; cook for one hour and add one head of
22
cauliflower fleurettes (cut out), one cup cooked green peas and a cup of string beans cut an inch long and twelve ripe peeled and seeded tomatoes cut coarse. Let cook one-half hour, season to taste and serve.
POTATO AND LEEK SOUP NO. 1 Cut up in thin slices twelve leeks and two onions; put in a sauce pan with a small ham bone and some drawn butter and place on a moderate fire. Let cook ten or twelve minutes, stirring occasionally. Add to it one gallon of stock and eight good sized potatoes quartered lengthways and cut thin. Season to taste; let simmer one hour until all is thoroughly cooked. Skim off the grease, if any, besprinkle with parsley and chives. Serve hot.
POTATO AND LEEK SOUP NO. 2
Proceed as in No. 1, but when cooked pass through a fine strainer. Place again in a clean sauce pan and set on the range. Bring to a boil. Work into it three pats of good butter and serve. (It should be of the consistency of a cream soup or puree.)
ONION SOUP AU GRATIN
Split twelve good sized onions in two and slice; then place in a saute pan with some good butter. Braise to a good brown color. Drain off the butter and add one gallon consomme. Cook for one hour; skim off all the grease and fill sixteen smarts or stone pots especially for the purpose. Place sippets of French bread (previously sprinkled with cheese and baked in the oven) on top, sprinkle with Swiss cheese and set in a hot oven. Let brown. Serve with it separate cheese and allumetus bread sticks.
Let soup cool considerably before putting it in the oven, for if put in too hot, it will boil right away, making it impossible to brown.
*^ftl*tu<ti+ @m**&S
23
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ADRIAN DELVAUX
CHEF DE CUISINE
HOTEL BALTIMORE
Kansas City, Mo. Mr. Delvaux started in at the Grand Hotel in Reimes, Franco, and thence to the Bristol Hotel in Paris. In this country, at the Chicago Club, Hotel Congress and Annex, Chicago and at the Auditorium Hotel,
Chicago. He has been at the Hotel Baltimore for five years, where he has made the Balti- more famous for its cuisine.
CLAM BROTH IN CUP WITH WHIPPED CREAM Take four dozen clams, open and remove shells; put in a small sauce pan with two cups of water; boil eight to ten minutes slowly. Strain through a fine cloth, add a small piece of butter, bring to second boil, season to taste and pour into cups and add a tablespoonful of whipped cream in each cup. Serve.
POTAGE A LA BONNE FEMME Boil a piece of bacon, some veal bones, leeks, carrots, turnips, celery, brown onion, small cabbage and two or three lettuce leaves and some roast chicken carcasses, in some stock. When the vegetables are done, take them out and cut, into small pieces; strain the stock, skim, add the vegetables and serve a half slice of toast on each plate.
CREAM VELOURS OF TOMATOES Al X PERLES TAPIOCA Put six ounces of butter in a sauce pan. add half a pound of lean ham or ham bone and one pound of veal bone, chopped onions and carrots, twelve grains whole black pepper, one bay leaf; let this mixture simmer for ten minutes. Cut some ripe tomatoes into halves, put tlieni into the sauce pan with the mixture, add half a quart of stock and one spoonful of flour and boil for half an hour; season with salt and pepper to taste, then strain through a fine sieve. Before serving, add two cups of boiling cream. Boil tapioca in water, strain and add tapioca to soup.
CHICKEN BROTH, WINDSOR
Take a four pound hen, draw and singe. Chop very fine one carrot, two onions, a bay leaf, and put into a sauce pan. Add four quarts of water and cook slowly for two to two and a half hours. Strain
24
this liquid through a very fine cloth, then take two yolks of eggs and one cup of cream beaten well and add to the broth. Serve with one tablespoonful of whipped cream on top.
ESSENCE OF BEEF Take two pounds of beef bones, four pounds of meat from beef shank, four whole onions, two carrots and put into roasting pan; then place in oven for five to twenty minutes until it is very brown in color. Remove from the roasting pan and put into a sauce pan; add four quarts of water and cook slowly for four hours. Strain this liquid through a very fine cloth, then season to taste and serve.
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LOUIS THEIN
FORMERLY CHEF DE CUISINE
HOTEL UTAH
Salt Lake City, Utah. Mr. Thein has been mth some of the best Hotels and Cafes in America.
Bermuda onion and sauce pan with one stirring occasionally.
CREAM OF TOMATO
Melt an ounce of butter in a sauce pan; add an ounce of lean finely chopped raw ham, a sliced carrot, onion, parsley, green pepper, garlic, clove, bay leaf and thyme; let it brown nicely for fifteen minutes, stirring occasionally. Add one quart crushed tomatoes with a quart of chicken or veal broth. Season with a light tablespoonful each of salt and sugar. Let cook for thirty minutes and strain through a sieve. Add one quart of cream and half a pound of butter. Serve hot with unsweetened whipped cream.
POTAGE PROVENCALE
With a very small parisienne potato scoop, dig out all you can from two medium carrots and two white turnips. Keep these articles on a plate until required. Cut in very small pieces a quarter of a pound of raw, lean veal, ham, the white part of two leeks. Place all these in a ounce of butter and cook for fifteen minutes, Moisten with chicken broth and tomato juice,
25
season; let gently boil for twenty-five minutes; add two ounces of raw rice and let boil for thirty minutes longer. Finely chop together parsley, chervil and half a bean of garlic and add to the soup. Lightly mix and let boil for ten minutes longer. Pour soup into tureen and serve.
POTAGE AUX LENTILLES, MONTAGNARDE
Soak one and a half pints of lentils in cold water six hours at least; drain. Heat one ounce of butter in a sauce pan, add one finely sliced onion, four sliced leeks and half a pound of salt pork, cut in small pieces. Mix well and brown for ten minutes, stirring meanwhile. Then add the drained lentils with four medium sized peeled potatoes, two branches of parsley, one branch of chervil, one bean of sound garlic, two bay leaves, two cloves and one and a half teaspoonfuls crushed allspice. Moisten with three quarts cf hot water, season with one teaspoonful of salt and a half teaspoonful of white pepper. Mix well. Cover pan and let boil for two hours. Remove, press through a sieve into a basin. Replace in same sauce pan with half a pint of hot milk, one gill of cream and a quarter of an ounce of butter. Mix well, let boil ten minutes, strain through a china strainer into a soup tureen and serve croutons on the side.
2(3
Their Special Sours &Coft50fWES
WALTER JURENZ
CHEF DE CUISINE
HOTEL GALVEZ Galveston, Tex.
Mr. Jurenz, prior to corning to this country, was with some of the finest hotels in Italy, France and England. He was Chef to Count Waldersee and his staff to China, the Red Lion Hotel at Henley on the Thames, England, Roy- al Crown Hotel, the Belgravia Hotel, and the Vienna Cafe, London, England. In this country, at Hotel La Salle, Hotel Con- gress and Annex, Chicago, and the Chicago Yacht Club.
will also flavor the
GERMAN LIVER DUMPLING SOUP
Use a strong consomme or chicken broth. Two pounds of beef livers grated very fine and strained through a fine colander, one very finely grated onion, three fried and finely chopped slices of bacon and two raw eggs. Add to it a teaspoon- ful of thyme, salt, pepper, paprika and a few dashes of Worcestershire sauce; thicken with white bread crumbs. Form this into balls about the size of a small egg and boil for about seven to ten minutes in boiling salted water, and serve with the soup.
LENTIL SOUP, FARMER STYLE
Soak half a pound of lentils over night, boil twice and then wash in cold water. Boil in strong beef stock for about two hours. Dice some carrots, turnips, potatoes and onions. When the lentils begin to get soft, add the carrots and turnips and let boil for about half an hour; then add the potatoes and onions and cook until done. Add some salt, pepper, paprika and Worcester- shire sauce. It is also advisable to put seme whole black peppers, whole allspice, green celery, parsley and thyme in a small linen bag which is to be tied up and hung in the soup, getting all the flavor out by cooking with the soup for about two hours. A nice ham bone or piece of bacon soup very nicely.
SOUP, BISQUE OF CRAWFISH— GULF STYLE Take three dozen crawfish and after carefully cleaning, boil them for fifteen minutes in salted water, then cut the bodies apart from the tails. Mash up the tails and feet of the crawfish well to a powder, then put into a casserole with some very finely chopped onions, carrots and celery, plentv of paprika, parsley and allspice, two bay leaves and some butter. Saute for about fifteen minutes, then add two quarts of a
World Famouj1 Chert
strong bouillon and keep this cooking slowly for about one hour. Strain and add a cup of sweet cream and a tablespoonful of fresh lump butter. Stuff the bodies of the crawfish with a mixture of fine grated veal, soaked bread, one whole egg, salt, pepper, paprika, chopped parsley and butter and boil the stuffed bodies for about ten minutes in salted water, then take them out and serve in the soup.
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TOMATO BOUILLON To make a strong and tasty tomato bouillon, it requires a white1 stock which is made as follows: Take about seven quarts of cold water and place in a stock pot with three pounds of veal knuckles or trimmings and about five pounds of chicken bones which may be smothered in the oven for flavor, but do not let them brown. Boil it up slowly, skimming well. Add one carrot, one 1 urnip, one onion, a little trimming of celery and a little salt, a bay leaf and a few grains of whole pepper. Boil for about three hours. Strain through a fine sieve. Take three pounds of veal shanks, cut the meat off and chop fine. Place meat and bone in a soup kettle with one finely minced carrot, one onion, a little parsley, a little celery and one leek. Put all together with the meat in the kettle adding about five whites of eggs, a little salt and mix thoroughly. Add twelve to fourteen very ripe red tomatoes crushed, and work well together. St'"r in slowly the previously made cold white stock and let it boil for about an hour, stir occasionally until it begins to boil. Let it simmer slowly. To obtain a fine strong stock, take a chicken of about four pounds, roasted a little, but not permitted to brown and add to the rest, letting all simmer together for an hour. This improves the flavor and strength of the bouillon. The chicken may afterwards be used for any other
G. R. MEYER
CHEF
RECTOR'S Chicago, 111. With finest hotels in Europe, also the Aud- itorium, Congress and College Inn, Chicago.
28
purpose. Strain through a silk tamy. The bouillon should be clear and red. After all the contents are boiled and strained, the liquid should measure about four quarts. Season to taste and serve in bouillon cups very hot.
As many prefer tomato bouillon cold, it is packed in ice until thoroughly chilled, then served in the usual way.
CONSOMME SOUVERAINE One and a half pounds of breasts of white fowl free from nerves and sinews, cut into small pieces, then pass through the meat machine. Put this into a mortar, pound it well into a fine paste. Have previously made a little panade which consists of butter, the size of an egg and half a cup of cream. Put both into a small sauce pan. When boiling, stir in about one and a half to two tablespoonfuls of best flour, stirring with a wooden spoon. Let boil until it loosens from the sides of the sauce pan, which will take about two minutes. Let this get cold. When cold, add with the chicken in the mortar, also season to taste and pound all well together into a fine paste, then add little by little, four whites of eggs. Work all together into a smooth paste. Take out and pass through a sieve and place sauce in an earthen bowl. When ready for use add about three-fourths to one cup of double cream and work this well together to a very smooth paste. Take about three truffles, pound or chop fine, mix with the chicken preparation, stirring well. Take a sheet of heavy white paper, butter it well and have it cool, spread the paste about three-sixteenths of an inch, smoothing it even with a knife, then put the paper into a shallow pan, butter side down, and put in oven or steamer for a few minutes to cook. When done, take out and let it. cool off; cut this with a round cutter, the size of a quarter and put all together in a soup tureen with previously cut julienne of white breast of chicken and mushrooms. Pour consomme over and serve hot.
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World Famouj1 Cher/1
STRAINED GUMBO IN CUPS One and a half quarts of chicken broth, four tomatoes and twelve fresh okras cooked for fifteen minutes. Strain and serve.
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JOHN PFAFF
CHEF DE CUISINE
HOTEL CAPE MAY Cape May, N. J. Mr. John Pfaff has been at the following hotels: Hotel Marie Antoinette, New York City, Hotel Metropole, Philadelphia, Brighton Beach, at Coney Island, New York; the Hotel Kaater skill, Kaaterskill, N. Y
CRAWFISH BISQUE— CREOLE Take about eight dozen fine, large crawfish and wash thoroughly, being careful to clean off every particle of dust or sand. Set to boil in about a gallon of water. Pick out two dozen of the largest crawfish, remove the inside of the tails and save the heads, cleansing them of every particle of meat. Set this meat to one side with the shells of the heads. Pick the meat from the rest of the fish, saving all the shells. Take one large onion, a carrot, a bunch of celery, a sprig of thyme, one bay leaf, three sprigs of parsley, six cloves, two blades of mace and one clove of garlic; chop all very fine ana put into the pot of water in which the crawfish were boiled. Add
LEOPOLD SAUX
STEWARD
HOTEL GRUNEWALD
New Orleans, La.
Mr. Saux is a Grune- wald product. He has worked in every de- partment in the back of this hotel, and is con- sidered a very good authority in this line of work.
30
Their Special Sours* Comommes
all the picked meat, except the reserved tails and all the shells of the bodies and heads, except the reserved heads. Add one cup of rice and let boil until the mixture becomes thick and mushy. When it is well cooked, take off the fire and mash the shells thoroughly, also the meat and strain all through a sieve. Take about a tablespoonful of butter and two quarts of oyster liquor and add this to the soup, seasoning to taste, with cayenne, salt and black pepper. Set to boil slowly. In the meantime, take the reserved crawfish meat and make a s tuning as follows for the reserved heads: Chop an onion very fine and let it brown in a table- spoonful of butter. Squeeze thoroughly a cup of bread wet with water. When well squeezed, mix with a little milk, sufficient to make a paste, season to taste and mix with the well seasoned crawfish meat. Chop another onion ana put in melted butter; add the crawfish stuffing, letting all fry about ten minutes and adding in the meantime, a finely chopped sprig each of thyme, parsley and a bay leaf, mixing thoroughly. Take off the fire and stuff the reserved heads of crawfish. Put on every stuffed head a dot of butter and set in the oven and bake for ten minutes. Place the stuffed heads in the tureen and pcur the soup over. Serve hot with croutons of buttered toast, passing the latter in a sep- arate dish.
:;i
World Famous Cher/1
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TOMATO BOUILLON EN TASSE Two quart cans of tomatoes or their equiva- lent in fresh tomatoes, one teaspoonful sugar, one whole clove, one quart strong chicken broth. Let boil one hour. Season with salt to taste. Strain and serve in cups.
CREAM OF CHICKEN SOUP WITH . ASPARAGUS
Dress a five-pound fowl and cut it in four parts. Place in a kettle with one gallon of cold water and a teaspoonful of salt, let boil slowly. Remove all the impurities that come to the top of the broth. When the fowl is tender, remove from the broth. Have one onion the size of an egg minced fine, one small stalk of celery minced; put in a sauce pan with one-third pound of good butter and let cook for fifteen minutes. Add a quarter of a pound of sifted flour and let cook on slow fire without coloring, for ten minutes; then add one quart of broth, stirring rapidly to avoid lumps. Let boil well for one hour; season with salt, white pepper and grated nut- meg to suit taste, then strain through a fine sieve. Before serving, add one cup rich cream with the yolks of two eggs well beaten. Do not let boil after this. Now add half the breast of chicken cut in small dice and the tips of asparagus which have been boiled in salt water. Serve.
GEORGE E. SCHAAF
CHEF DE CUISINE
HOTEL ALBANY Denver, Colo.
Mr. Schaaf has been connected with several prominent hotels in tlm country prior to coming to the Albany, and was at one time, Chef at the Minneapolis Club in Minneapolis.
32
Their Special 5ouR5&ConsowMEs
HENRI D. FOUILLOUX
CHEF-STEWARD
ST. CHARLES HOTEL
New Orleans, La. _ Mr. Fouilloux served his apprenticeship at the Maison Arwaud of Paris, France. Was later at the Hotel du Rliin, Paris, with Baron de Neaflize at Paris, with Mr. Vayne Mc- Veah — American Am- bassador in Rome, with Count Moroni Pecci at Rome, Leo XIII at the Vatican in Rome, Madame M e 1 b a in London, for Viscount Bulkeley at Beaumaris in North Wales and at the Grand Hote 1 in Rome. Coming to this country, he was at the Hollenden Hote' , Cleve- land.
CLEAR GREEN TURTLE SOUP
Take two pounds of fresh green turtle meat cut in dice with a little chopped onions and a piece of butter. Fry and season with a little paprika, salt, whole pepper and a small handful of odoriferous herbs, such as corienthe, romarin and basilie. Put the whole in a two quart stew pan, with a half nice fat hen and a little knuckle of veal, two whole tomatoes, half a pint of Samos wine and one gallon of chicken bouillon. Skim the liquid at the first bubbling and move it back to the side of the fire. When the meat is done, drain it, skim off the fat from the soup, pass it through a fine muslin cloth into another stew pan and put in again, one by one, your diced turtle meat with a few dice of black truffles and finish before serving with a glass of Samos wine.
33
World Famous Chert
HENRI BOUTROUE
CHEF DE CUISINE
HOTEL SHELBOURNE Dublin, Ireland Mr. Boutroue was formerly with the Clif- ton Down Hotel at Bristol, England, the Queen's Hotel at Leeds, England, the Savoy Hotel in London; the Laugham, London, also the Hotel Metropole, London.
CONSOMME, CHANCELIER
Strong consomme, julienne garniture, com- posed of mushrooms, truffles, beets, diced chicken and royale of foie gras, one pint puree of peas, three yolks of eggs poached and cut in round shapes.
POTAGE LONDONDERRY
Make a light paste of rice flour, and cook in same a chopped calf's liver, one chicken, garniture of vegetables and a few mushrooms for about one hour. Take off the range and add two or three yolks of eggs and a few tablespoonfuls of cream; add butter at the last moment and garnish with scallops and combs of chicken. No stock.
n
GUMBO A LA SAM WARD
One pint chicken gumbo, one pint clear green turtle. Mix before serving; add half a gill of good Sherry. Serve in tureens.
J
I ARTHUR TAYLOR
CHEF DE CUISINE
HOTEL RAYMOND Pasadena, Cal. Mr. Raymond is Chef at the Hotel Raymond, Pasadena, Cal. during the winter season, and at the Ocean Side Hotel, Magnolia, Mass., during the summer
34
Theie Special Soupj&Cootwe-s"
LUCIEN RAYMOND
CHEF DK CUISINE
HOTEL CONGRESS AND ANNEX Chicago, 111. Prior to coming to this country, Mr. Ray- mond was at the Ritz Hotel in Paris, the Ritz Hotel in London, and the Trianon Palace at Versailles, France. On coming to this country he was at the famous Ritz-Carlton, New York.
CREME DE VOLAILLE MARIE STUART
(Cream of Chicken Soup Marie Stuart) Make a cream of chicken soup with plenty of cream and garnish with asparagus tips, shredded white meat of chicken and truffles.
CONSOMME CYRANO
Broth with duck stock. Garniture, small dumplings made of duck force-meat, form with a teaspoon and put on a buttered baking pan. When baked, poach and put into a special tureen, sprinkle with Parmesan cheese grated fine. Spread lightly with chicken glace and brown like au gratin.
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CONSOMME— RICH EN TASSE (Rich Bouillon in Cups)
Two pounds beef with bones of leg. Let boil four or five hours. Garniture, a quarter of a pound of carrots, three and a half ounces turnips, one parsnip, one small onion, one clove, a small piece of garlic, one stalk of celery, salt, and two quarts of water.
Prepare in casserole four-fifths of a pound lean beef; hash a few turnips, carrots, leeks, one white of egg, a few fowl necks and bones. Wet
HENRI BERGER
CHEF DE CUISINE
FRANKFURTER- HOF
Frankfurt, A. M. Germany Mr. Berger has been with the following ho- tels: Hotel Chatham, Paris; the Hermitage at Monte Carlo, France; the Grand Hotel des Thermes, Salsomag- giore, Italy; the fa- mous Hotel Ritz, Paris, prior to coming to the Frankfurter-hof.
35
World Famouj1 Cher/1
with consomme and let boil two hours on moderate flame. Strain through cheese cloth and serve hot or cold, according to season.
LOUIS LESCARBOURA
CHEF DE CUISINE
FT. PITT HOTEL
Pittsburg, Pa. Prior to coming to the Fort Pitt Hotel, Mr. Lescarboura was Chef at the Hotel Marlbor- ough, New York City, and other prominent eastern hotels, and was Entremetier at the famous "Delmonioo's Cafe," New York City.
let slowly boil for soup when starting
POTAGE BONNE FEMME
Cut very fine, two clean leeks and a medium sized onion. Put them in a sauce pan with a piece of butter and cook to a very light brown. Moisten with a quart of chicken broth and hot water; season with salt and pepper. Let boil for fifteen minutes, then add four sliced medium potatoes. Let cook until the potatoes are thoroughly soft, add a gill of cream, a piece of butter and boil once more. Serve.
GARBURE POLIGNAC
Finely chop two ounces of larding pork, two onions, two leeks and a bean of garlic. Place in a copper sauce pan and slowly cook until a light golden color. Pour in a gallon of water or stock; mix well. Season with a tablespoon of salt and teaspoonful of pepper; add half a pint of soaked white navy beans. Boil for half an hour. Add half a head of savoy cabbage and three potatoes, finely sliced. Cover the pan and one hour. A beef or ham bone added to the to boil will much improve it.
POT AU FEU HENRY IV.
Clean and wash one five-pound fowl, one pound lean beef, one
marrow bone, two carrots, two onions, four leeks, two celery stalks,
two branches parsley, four potatoes and a small head of cabbage.
Wrap in a cloth, a tablespoonful of mixed whole spices. Boil the fowl
36
Their Special Soups&ConsowMEs
and meat, then remove the water. Add two gallons of cold water, Season with a tablespoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful of ground pepper. Cover the po1 and let come to a boil. Add the carrots, onions and spice. Let simmer for one hour, then add the celery, parsley and leeks tied together in a bunch. Boil for a half an hour. Add the whole potatoes and the cabbage cut in quarters and let the whole slowly boil for another half hour or until the cabbage and potatoes are cooked. Remove the meat, fowl and bone. Place all the vegetables on a platter; strain the broth in a soup tureen, skim a little of the fat over the broth and serve with some slices of thin toasted dried bread in the soup and the vegetables separate. To give the broth a better appearance, color it with a little burned sugar.
CHICKEN GUMBO GERMAINE
Cut the meat of a raw fowl into small squares, also two White onions, two leeks, one green pepper and two ounces of raw lean ham. Place in a sauce pan with two tablespoonfuls of melted butter and gently brown. Moisten with three quarts of water or stock. Add the bones of the fowl, season with a light tablespoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful of pepper. Boil slowly for twenty-five minutes. Add a cupful of shelled raw green peas and boil for fifteen minutes; add an ounce of raw rice, twelve fresh cut okras and two peeled, crushed tomatoes. Cover the pot and let simmer for forty minutes. Remove bones, skim the fat from the surface and serve.
OX ION SOUP NORSE
Finely slice six white onions, place them in a sauce- pan with two tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Cook until very brown; then add a tablespoonful of flour and mix well. Pour in a quart of chicken broth, season with salt and cayenne pepper; mix well and boil for twenty minutes. Beat two egg yolks with a cup of rich cream. Remove the pot from the fire, then add this mixture, mixing all the while with a whip. Serve with toasted slices of French rolls and grated Parmesan cheese.
CREAM OF MUSHROOMS
Finely chop one pound of fresh mushrooms; place them in a sauce pan with two ounces of butter and slowly cook for eight minutes. Add
37
World Famous Chert
one and a half ounces of flour, mix well, then pour in a quart of chicken broth and a half pint of milk. Briskly mix it with a whip, add one sliced onion, two sliced branches of celery, one branch of parsley, one branch of chervil, half a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, one tablespoon- ful of salt and a pinch of cayenne pepper. Mix well. Boil for half an hour. Dilute two egg yolks with half a pint of cream and the juice of half a lemon. Add this to the vsoup with one ounce of good butter, mix while heating for one minute. Strain the soup through a fine sieve, then through a cheese cloth and serve.
CONSOMME IN JELLY Place in a pan three pounds of chopped, raw, lean meat of beef, with one sliced carrot, one onion, one turnip, two branches of celery, one bean of garlic, 1 wo leeks, one tomato, one branch of parsley, one saltspoonful of mixed spices, one tablespoonful of salt, half a teaspoon- ful of pepper, two raw eggs and three leaves of gelatine. Mix well with a wooden spoon for a few minutes. Gradually add two quarts and a half of boiling water while mixing. Let it come to a boil, then pour in a gill of cold water. Set the pan beside the red fire and let it gently simmer for two hours. Strain through a doubled cheese cloth into a jar. Let. it get cold, then place it in the ice box over night. Never put any sou]) in the ice box while warm as it would turn sour.
(REAM OF TAPIOCA Sprinkle in one and a half pints of clear, strong, boiling chicken broth, two ounces of French sage; mix well with a whisk and boil for twenty minutes. Beat together in a cup, a quarter of a pint of thick cream, the yolks of two eggs and a piece of good butter. Remove the soup from the fire, pour this cream gradually in, constantly mixing while adding. Pour into a soup tureen and serve.
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Theig Special Soupj&Coasommes
Vv
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JEAN JUILLARD
CHEF DE CUISINE
HOTEL ADOLPHUS Dallas, Tex. Mr. Juillard was for- merly at Cafe Anglais, Paris; Hotel Hermi- tage, Monte Carlo; Ho- tel d'Angleterre, Ven- ice; Savoy Hotel and Princess Restaurant, London; the Plaza, Belmont and Astor Ho- tels, New York City; Hotel La Salle, Rector's Cafe and University Club, Chicago.
POTAGE SIDI BRAHIM Put six ounces of butter in a pot and add flour until you have a medium paste. Cock five minutes and add some chicken broth, mixing well. Cook a dozen Jerusalem artichokes for an hour, mash and strain into a fine china cup; have some chiffonade of sorrel, pass in butter first and finish with six yolks of eggs. Mix with half a pint of good cream, well buttered, also some French peas.
POCHOUSE BOURGIGNONE
Put six ounces salt pork cut in dice, three ounces butter and two good sized onions in a sauce pan. Cook to a golden color. Then add a few spoonfuls of flour. Brown it a little and add two quarts of good Claret and two quarts of water, mixed well. Let come to the boiling point and add the head and bones of a pickerel, carp, ells, tauch, perch and any other hard, fresh water fish, a bay leaf, thyme, celery, parsley and cloves, seasoned well. Boil for one good hour. Then strain in another pan and pour your soup on toasted sliced French bread.
POTAGE A L'OSEILLE JEUNE MARIEE
Take two or three potatoes, sliced fine and cook with some chicken broth. Have some fresh sorrel shredded and cook in a sauce pan with butter. When it becomes soft, add it to your potatoes, which are already cooked; let boil and add a little vermicelli; serve with toasted roll. A few yolks of eggs mixed with a little cream may be added. This will make your potage much richer.
POTAGE" VENDANGEUSE
Slice some new potatoes cut in small pieces, some fresh string beans and two leeks, one sweet lettuce shredded. Cook for an hour in
39
World Famouj1 Chert
small quantity of water; have some boiled milk, then mix up and boil together. Serve with croutons.
POTAGE SIMONETTE
Pul some butter in a pan oh the fire, ad< I some flour, cook fcr fifteen minutes on a slow fire, then add some chicken broth. Mix well and when boiling add some chopped celery, then let this cook for an hour; add some fresh tomato meat, leave ii lift ecu minutes more on the fire, then strain. Finish with good cream and sweei butter. Serve with croutons souffle.
PUMPKIN GRAND MERE Cut some pumpkin in dice and cook if with half milk and water. Then add a cupful of cooked rice, sugar and ;i little orange blossom; water must not be too thick,
PIGEON SOUP— FARMER STYLE
Put in a sou)) kettle two old pigeons, one pound beef shank, one pound salt pork and cold water. Let boil and skim well; then add some julienne of cabbage, potato, one piece garlic, one bay leaf and two cloves; cook for two hours and serve with toasted bread, dish up the meat on the side.
DEEP SEA CONSOMME Take a head of red fish, the raw shell of a Pacific lobster, some clam and Eastern oysters with the shell, one crab, celery, parsley, green onions, bay leaf, whole pepper and saffron; boil on low fire and skim the top very carefully. Serve some fresh shrimps in and toasted sliced French rolls on the side.
CREAM OF DUCK LIVER VARSSOVIENNE Half a pound of liver, half a pound lentils, one gallon chicken broth, one pint cream. Cut some leeks, celery and onions in dice and pass in butter, then add three ounces of flour; let cook for five minutes, then add chicken broth; let boil and add one bay leaf, whole pepper, clove and liver and lentils, which have been blanched. Cook for two
40
Their Special Soi/pj&ConsoMMEs
hours and strain in a very fine china cap or cloth. Boil again, thou add cream and about three ounces of sweet butter. Serve some croutons souffles stuffed with puree of game.
VEGETABLE SOUP PROVANCALE
Slice very fine one potato, one carrot, two leeks, one onion, a little celery and cabbage, a handful of fresh peas and string beans, one summer squash, three fresh tomatoes, from which the seeds and skins have been removed. Take a young hen, put in a pot and add the above" cook for one hour and then add a handful of spaghetti cut in small pieces; cook twenty minutes more; have one piece garlic and some fresh basil chopped very fine, and mix some parmesan cheese with it ■ then add to your soup two minutes before ready to serve.
JOHN CHIAPPANO
CHEF DE CUISINE
AUDITORIUM
HOTEL
Chicago, HI.
Mr. Chiappano has
been with some of the
finest Hotels in this
country and Europe.
BOUILLON BOSTONIENNE Draw and singe two good sized fowls. Place in a sauce pan with a carrot, turnip, onion, bay leaf and a couple of cloves, ('over with water and bring to a boil slowly. Skim off impurities coming to the top from time to time; let boil very slowly. When the fowls are cooked, strain through a cheese cloth, season and serve with unsweetened whipped cream.
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ii
World Famous Cher/1
GERARD EMBREGTS
CHEF DE CUISINE
CHATEAU FROXTEXAC Quebec, Canada Prior to coming to America, Mr. Embregts was at the Maison- LeClerc, in Belgium; and the Hotel St. An- toine; the Tavern Ren- jeaux, in Belgium, the Grand Hotel de L'Em- pereur at Ostend, Holland, the Berkeley Hotel, Hyde Park Court Club, also at the Em- bassy de Russe, London.
POTAGE A LA REINE Boil rice in chicken broth in which you have a good sized chicken. When cooked, take out white meat of chicken which will serve to make the croutons by cutting it in dice shape. Save the remainder and pile it altogether in a strainer. Then heat the potage to boiling point, and strain the wh( le. Add cream, butter and dice of white meat and serve.
POTAGE CHASSEUR
(Hunter's Tot age)
Put in a casserole odds and ends of game, a variety of soups, vegetables and let cook in oven for a few minutes. Add a little white wine. When the whole is cooked, pass through a colander. Put it all back in a casserole; add good consomme with a little tomato sauce and cook for half an hour. Strain again and thicken with arrow- root. Before serving, add a glass of good brandy.
42
Their Special Sours s-Ommwes
PETER BONA
CHEF DE CUISINE
HOTEL CHAMBERLAIN (Old Point Comfort) Fortress Monroe, Va. Mr. Bona's history since he arrived in this country is brief: three years at the Waldorf Astoria, New York City, in various capaci- ties in the kitchen.
EGGS BOUILLON
Four perfectly fresh eggs, salt and pepper, a
little grated nutmeg and three cups strong
chicken broth, very hot. Whip thoroughly
together and serve at once in very hot cups.
CLAM CHOWDER, VIRGINIA STYLE
Salt pork cut in dice and fried until brown. Strained fish broth and clam liquor in equal parts brought to a boil and skimmed. Add sliced potatoes and onions; boil until barely done, then add the salt pork, bring to a boil again after adding the scalded clams cut up in suitable sizes. Add pepper, salt and a little ground mace to taste; thin to the required consistency with Bechamel sauce, but do not boil after. Add some rolled crackers and serve.
CONSOMME SUEDOISE
Chicken flavor. Run a couple of carrots,
turnips and a small cabbage through a meat
cutting machine, then braise until done. Add green peas and flagolets,
a little grated parmesan cheese and season to taste. Make some small
croustades, fill with the mixture and serve one on each plate.
CONSOMME VERTE PRE Sprinkle two tablespoonfuls of tapioca into one quart of boiling consomme and set to ccok gently for a quarter of an hour. Put into the soup tureen one tablespoonful of asparagus heads, the same quan- tity of peas and French beans. Cut into lozenges a few roundels of sorrel leaves and as many roundels of poached lettuce leaves. Pour the boiling consomme over this garnish and add a large pinch of chei ril
POT AGE A LA PIEDMONTESE One pound raw ham, one pound of bacon cut in dice, one pound navy beans, one pound lima beans, one small cabbage shredded and
;."•
World Famouj1 Chert
one pound minced celery root. Simmer all for half an hour in bouillon, blanc, then add one pint of green peas, one pint of asparagus heads, one quart of small sausage balls, one pound of rice, and a few chopped fresh tomatoes. Simmer until done. Season and serve with a little Parmesan cheese and croutons.
CONSOMME A LA MONTE CARLO
Stamp out of slices of vegetabL hearts. Make a chicken force-meal dominoes with a colum cutter. Out slices to imitate poker chips. Add a
•s, spades, clubs, diamonds and dotted with truffles; slice like out of whole turnips and beets 1 to a rich chicken consomme
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CHAS. GROLIMl M)
CHEF DE CUISINE
WASHINGTON HOTEL
Seattle, Wash. Mr. Grolinmnd was formerly at the Grand Hotel Neues Stahlb&d, St. Moritz-Bad ; Grand Hotel Brussels, Brus- sels ; Grand Hotel Quir- inal, Rome; Grand Ho- tel Anatre Nation, Bar- celona, Restaurant Del- monico, New York and the St. Francis, San Francisco.
PHILADELPHIA PEPPER POT Out in small dice two large, green peppers, t wo leeks, one stalk celery, one onion and smother them slowly in very hot butter for about fifteen minutes. Then mix to it a tablespoonful of flour and t wo quarts of boiling soup stock well seasoned. Out two potatoes in small squares and add to the boiling sou]). Let cook until the potatoes are done. Also have ready half a pound of cooked tripe cut in dice and add to sou}). Serve with dumplings. To prepare the dumplings, break one egg into a bowl, add flour, salt and pepper and mix into a soft paste like hot cake batter. Then add one chopped pimento and six crushed pepper corns. Put this paste into a collander, place over the boiling soup and cook for one minute longer.
POTATO SOUP CHIFFONADE
Prepare a julienne of lettuce, chicory, celery and sorrel, well seasoned: let simmer in
44
butter for twenty minutes. Slice, four potatoes, three leeks and one onion and fry in butter until lightly colored. Add three pints of soup stock, let boil for half an hour and strain. Mix the prepared julienne to the strained soup, let boil once more and before serving add one teacup of cream.
CONSOMME COLBERT Have ready two medium sized carrots, one turnip, half a dozen string beans, one stalk celery, two leeks, two asparagus. Cut into small dice and add one cup of peas. Smother all together for twenty minutes in butter. Then add to it two quarts of good seasoned soup stock and cook slowly ten minutes more. Free the soup from fat and serve with chopped chervil and a poached egg to each person.
FISH BROTH A LA WASHINGTON Have ready two quarts of clarified plain fish broth. Cut in dice some carrots, leeks, parsley and celery roots. Cook in a sauce pan with half an ounce of butter and one cup of broth. Reduce to a glace and put with the fish broth; add the fillets of half a pound of bass cut in thin collups; boil five minutes longer. Pour into a soup tureen, add small rcunds of outer crusts of bread fried in butter and serve.
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45
World Famouj1 Chert
COQUINA CLAM BROTH Cover one quart of coquina clams with cold water and let come to a boil. Strain through cheese cloth and add half a teaspoonful cf salt and a aessert spoonful of whipped cream en top. Serve hot.
S. B. PETTENGILL
CHEF DE CUISINE
HOTEL ORMOND Ormond Beach, Fla. Mr. Pettengill has been chef at the Hotel Ormond for fifteen sea- sons, and at the Craw- ford House, White Mountains, N. H. for twenty-five seasons.
HOT TOMATO BOUILLON IN CUPS
Take one quart of chicken stcck and the meat of half a raw fowl chopped very fine, the whites cf six eggs, one carrot, one onion and one quart fresh tomatoes. Mix all together and set on range. Let simmer until it comes to a boil, then strain through a cheese cloth. Serve hot in cups.
POTAGE UNCLE SAM Take the juice of a pint of clams and the same amount of chicken stock. Put in sauce pan a quarter of a pound of butter and three tablespoonfuls of flour, add the clam juice and chicken stock and let come to a boil. Serve with a spoonful of whipped cream on top.
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46
TOMATO CHOWDER, VIRGINIENNE
Shred fine two ounces of salt pork, one white onion and one peeled green pepper. Saute together for about ten minutes, then add two ounces fresh butter and saute five minutes longer, but do not let get brown. Add two tablespoonfuls of flour, mix together, then add one pint of tomato sauce and one pint of white broth, three raw potatoes cut in small dice and twelve young tender fresh okras cut into half inch pieces. Lot cook with a bouquet of garnishings for one hour. Add two ripe peeled fresh tomatoes and two dozen small raw oysters with the eyes cut off and a pinch of paprika, pepper and salt to taste and let boil five minutes longer.
JOSEPH STOLTZ
CHEF DE CUISINE
HOTEL PONCE DE LEON
St. Augustine, Fla.
Mr. Stoltz was for- merly at the National Arts Club, New York City; later with the Metropole Hotel, New York City and the Country Club, Detroit, Mich
CHICKEN BROTH ALEXANDRIA
Consisting of chicken broth garnished with quenelles, cox-combs and rice.
Chicken Broth
Clean two hens of about five pounds each. Place in a casserole with cold water so they are covered with same and bring to a slow simmer; remove all fat and skum. Cut up two heads of celery, three carrots, three onions, two leeks, a little parsley, a teaspoonful of whole pepper, two bay leaves and some salt and put into the slow boiling stock. From time to time skim and remove the fat. When hens are boiled tender take them out and reduce the broth for about
47
CHAS. A. FREY
CHEF
HOTEL ALEXANDRIA Los Angeles, Cal. Mr. Frey was first at the Hotel von Konig von England in Mini- ster; later at the Dom Hotel, Cologne; Con- tinental Hotel, Paris; with the North German Lloyd and Hamburg- \ merican Steamship Lines and Hotel Belle- vue-Stratford, Philadel- phia.
World Famous Chert
two hours longer so it is good and strong. Strain through a Tamy (a heavy cheese cloth).
Quenelles Half a raw skinless and boneless chicken ground very fine; pound in a mortar with two whole eggs, salt, ground pepper, nut- meg and finely chopped parsley. Then rub through a fine sieve. Add some whipped cream and mix well. Then shape like little eggs between two demi-tasse spoons and poach in chicken broth. Have half a dozen coxcombs blanched and skinned and bcil very tender. Cut in small pieces and serve in chicken broth. Also some washed and boiled rice.
JEAN S. BERDOU
CHEF DE CUISINE
HOTEL ASTOR New York City, N. Y. Mr. Berdou took his apprenticeship under the celebrated Argeles Gasost, chef at the Hotel de France, Paris, after which he was with the Hotel Continental at Cauterets, France, Hotel de France at Paris, Hotel Continen- tal, Biarritz, France and Restaurant Francais, Madrid, Spain. Corn- ing to this country he was at the famous Louis Sherry's Cafe, New York City.
BISQUE D'HOMARD AMERICANE (Bisque of Lobster American)
Cook lobsters in short bouillon with a few vegetables and a glass of Rhine wine for about twenty-five minutes. Take out lobsters, separate bodies from carcass and place a piece of butter, a spoonful of flour and the lobster stock in a casserole and let simmer for a few minutes. Put the carca.ss in a mortar and mash fine; then add the stock which gives it a fine color. Also take peeled bodies and let simmer over fire for twenty- five minutes. Add a teacupful of double cream and one glass of Cognac; season with salt and cayenne pepper. Strain the whole and serve hot.
SOUPE AU CRESSON (Watercress Soup) Take four potatoes, two large onions and a little thyme. Mince the wmole and put in pan with three quarts of water on stove. Add a piece of salt pork and cook twenty-five minutes. Remove salt pork and strain the rest through a
48
Theie Special Soupe&CoflsowrcEs
fine sieve. Put back in pan and Let come to a boil. 'Fake a bunch of water cress, remove the leaves and chop fine. Add iliis to the soup and let boil half a minute. Serve with croutons.
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EMILE BAILLY,
CHEF DE CUISINE
HOTEL ST. REGIS
New York City, N.Y. Mr. Bailly prior to coming to this country served in the very best hotels in Europe. He left the Grand Hotel of Monte Carlo, France ten years ago, to come to New York and open the St. Regis.
CONSOMME PARFAIT Two pounds beef shin bone, four pounds beef meat, one hen. Put into a pot with one gallon cold water; let boil and skim. Put in one carrot, one large onion, two cloves, half a leek, celery, a small turnip and two soupspoonfuls of salt. Let boil five hours very slowly, until the hen and beef are well done. Skim the fat off the broth, strain through cheese cloth, put in another pan and let boil. Throw two soupspoonfuls of tapioca into it and let cook ten minutes. Season with salt.
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49
World Famcw Cher/1
BEN E. DUPAQUIER
CHEF DE CUISINE
HOTEL ARLINGTON Santa Barbara , Cal. Mr. Dupaquier's first position was in The Pendennis Club, of Louisville, Ky. Later at the Gault House, Louisville, the Missouri Athletic Club, the Mer- cantile Club and the New Jefferson Hotel of St. Louis; the Jonathan Ciub and the California Club, Los Angeles and the Hotel Maryland, Pasadena, Cal.
CONSOMME Two pounds raw beef from a shin, cut into pieces, any parings of chicken, beef and bones of same on hand, one medium sliced carrot, one onion, one branch parsley chopped up, one clove of garlic chopped, one branch chopped celery, one chervil, one leek, one tablespoonful salt, ten whole black peppers, one clove, five allspice, one sprig bay leaf and one saltspoonful thyme. Place all the above in a saucepan, then pour in a little cold water to nearly cover the meat and other ingredients. Place the pan to one side and lei it stand to infuse for one hour. Then place the pan on a hot range and gently stir the con- tents with a wooden spoon while cooking, for five minutes. Pour in two and a half quarts of boiling water and stir well again until it comes to a boil. Cover the pan and let it slowly simmer for one and a half hours. Strain the consomme through a napkin into another sauce pan.
POTAGE PRINTAINIER
Prepare and strain a consomme into sauce pan. With a small Parisienne potato scoop take out all you can from two medium scraped carrots and two peeled sound turnips and place in a small sauce pan with half a pint of the consomme and half a pint of hot water. Season with two saltspoonfuls of salt and boil for thirty minutes, then add all the contents of the pan to the consomme; add also two tablespoonfuls of cooked string beans. Cut into half inch pieces; two leaves of clean lettuce and two leaves of clean sorrel, both cut into julienne strips; lightly mix, then boil for ten minutes and serve.
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50
Theig Special Soups s-Coasommes
L
MARTIN GINDER
CHEF DE CUISINE
HOTEL GREEN Pasadena, Cal.
Mr. Ginder was ap- prenticed i n France in the best hotels. He was at the New York Athletic Club, the Princeton Club, the old Hotel Metropole, Cafe Savarin and the Ven- dome Hotel, New York City. He has also held several i mportant posi- tions! n the middle west prior to taking his pres- ent position.
TOMATO BROTH Twelve large, fresh tomatoes, one fowl, four pounds veal bones, one carrot, one onion, one red pepper, two whole cloves, one branch parsley, one stalk celery, one gallon water. Boil the tomatoes and veal bones in the water with the above vegetables. Clean a good sized fowl, roast it in a hot oven for about ten minutes until it gets nice and brown. Then put the fowl in the tomato broth and let cook until done. When the fowl is good and tender, take it out and let get cold, then strain the broth through a cheese cloth, season and serve hot in a bouillon cup.
CREAM OF CHICKEN TAVERN
Cook a good sized fowl in just enough water to cover it, add one onion, a tablespoonful of salt, a stalk of celery, one bay leaf, one clove, one carrot and one cup of rice. As soon as the fowl is cooked so you can pull the meat off, take it out and let cool. Then pound in a mortar until it is all mashed up. Turn it back into the liquid, and let boil for another few minutes; then pass through a fine puree sieve. Add half a pint of cream, a quarter of a pound of butter and half a cup of well-cooked rice. Serve hot m a soup tureen or in cups.
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51
World Famouj1 Chert
BONED OXTAIL AYRSHIRE Take one oxtail, cut in pieces and let stand for a few hours in cold water; then let cook in a white stock. When well done, take meat off the bones and put lightly into press. Strain the stock and thicken with arrowroot. Make a Brunoise, not too fine, composed of carrots, parsnips, leeks and celery. Add then to the stock, the oxtail and two spoonfuls of oatmeal cooked in bouillon of Sherry and a little cayenne. Serve.
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JULES DAUVILLER
CHEF DE CUISINE
PALACE HOTEL San Francisco, Cal. Mr. Dauviller was formerly the $10,000 a year dictator of the cuisine i n the home of Mr. and Mrs. Harry Payne Whitnev in New YoVk. The Whitneys got him from the Grand Hotel in Puris. He served his apprentice- ship i n the Cafe de la Paix at Marguery and the Hotel Chabot at the French Capital, before taking responsible posi- tions with the Hotel Riveria at Nice, Italy and the Grand Hotel at Paris. He succeeded to the position of Chef at the Palace in San Francisco upon the resignation of Mr. Ernest Arbogast.
ESSENCE OF TOMATO EN TASSE Strain and boil Essence of Tomato with a half chicken and serve in bouillon cups.
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WILLIAM LEON BENZENI
CHEF DE CUISINE
HOTEL VIRGINIA Long Beach, Cal. Mr. Benzeni learned his trade at the Hotel Metropole in Geneva, Switzerland. Afterward he was employed at Stutgart, Wurtemberg, Germany. He was con- nected with several prominent hotels in the East prior to coming west to take the posi- tion at the Hotel Vir- ginia.
52
Their Special Sour? & Consoles
JULES BOUCHER
CHEF DE CUISINE
HOTEL ARLINGTON
Hot Springs, Ark.
Mr. Boucher served his apprenticeship at famous French Hotels and Cafes under Chefs world famous, such as Father Thiebout, of the Maison et Chabot of Paris, Chef Cassinin, of the Maisson Dorce, and was at the Res- taurant Marguery, Pal- ace Madelaine of Paris and the Cafe Royal of London. Coming to America he was at the Hotel Tourraine, Bos- ton, Auditorium Hotel, Chicago, and the De- troit Club, at Detroit.
BOUILLON EN TASSE (Bouillon in Cups) Put beef bones in cold water and salt and let come to a boil. Then skim off and add carrots, onions, cloves, celery, whole pepper and let cook for two hours. Put aside, then add two or three pounds chopped beef, two eggs and mix the whole together. Replace on stove until all is well cooked then strain. Before serving add a glass of Madeira wine.
CLEAR GREEN TURTLE
Add to eight quarts of beef bouillon four pounds of veal bones and four pounds of chicken necks and wings, thyme, laurel leaf, celery, mushroom peelings, salt, pepper, parsley, marjoram and clarify same, then consomme. Cut the turtle meat in dice and keep in a "Bain Mari." Before serving, add Xeres Oloroso or Amontillado Sherry. Granday Turtle is the best to use. If desired, thicken the soup with arrow- root.
53
EDWARD R. J. FISCHEL
STEWARD
HOTEL PIEDMONT Atlanta, Ga. Mr. Fischel was ap- prenticed under the fa- mous Jean Marie La- porte and has been at the following hotels: Hoffman House, New York City, Cafe Sava- rin, N. Delmonico and the Congress and An- nex, Chicago.
CHICKEN GUMBO STRAINED IN CUP
Cut one tender well cleaned chicken in small square pieces. Place in a sauce pan with three ounces of butter, add four ounces of lean raw ham, two onions, two branches celery, two leeks, two green peppers cut in squares. Stir with a wooden spoon over fire until the moisture evapo- rates, then add about half a gallon chicken broth, three peeled tomatoes and ten pieces of well washed okra cut in pieces, a sprig of thyme, a teaspoonful of gumbo file and two bay lea vis; let all this simmer until the okra is well done. Remove fat from top and strain into cups and serve.
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54
Their Special Sours s-ConsonroES
CHARLES PIER GIORGI
CHEF DE CUISINE
HOTEL ALCAZAR
St. Augustine, Fla. Prior to coming to the Hotel Alcazar, Mr. Giorgi was at the Hotel Walton and the Gilsey House, New York City; the Bay Shore House at City Island, N.Y. : the Hollywood Hote 1 at West End, N.J., and at the Hotel Kittatinny at Delaware Water Gap Pa.
CHICKEN AND CELERY BOUILLON- OPORTO Prepare one good sized fowl. Cover in a pot with eold water. Add two stalks of celery chopped fine, six leeks, one bay leaf and one onion. Boil slowly for about three hours. Season with salt, and pepper. Strain both through cheesecloth. Add to each cup of broth one tablespoonful of Oporto Sherry and one tea- spoonful of whipped cream. Serve with a piece of toast very hot.
POTAGE— VICTORINE
One-quarter of a pound of butter, mince one- quarter of a pound of ham, one onion, one piece of celery, blanch and slice two sweetbreads. Add flour to form a thin paste. Rub all through a puree sieve. Heat again. Thin with chicken broth, season with salt and pepper and serve with shredded chicken, rice and bread croutons.
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55
World Famous Chert
CESAR OBRECHT
CHEF DE CUISINE
GRAND HOTEL
DE L 'EUROPE
Lucerne, Switzerland
also PALACE HOTEL LTD. Murren, Switzerland Mr. Obrecht, prior to holding his present position, was at the Grand Savoi Hotel at Florence, at the Grand Hotel and Kurhaus, at St. Blasien; the Grand Hotel de Thouwe at Thouwe, the Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky at Amsterdam, the Grand Hotel de Salines at Reinfelden and the Grand Hotel Waldhaus at Vulpera.
CONSOMME PARFAIT (Perfeci Consomme)
Chop one pound lean beef as fine as possible and put in a casserole. Add one carrot, one leek chopped fine, one head of celery, chervil, two whites of eggs, and put in the whole about three quarts of cold bouillon. Bring to boil and stir. When boiling, let cook slowly for about two hours. Remove the grease and strain. Garniture, one and a half ounces tapioca and Royal a la cream in dice.
Royal a La Cream
One-fifth pint of cream, one whole egg and a little salt; beat egg and mix with cream. Fill into mould and let poach in a pan of hot water, but do not let come to a boil. When cooked and cooled, turn out on upturned cover of vessel and cut in dice.
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56
Their Special Soueo&Coasojwes
ERN EST OTZENBERGER
CHEF DE CUISINE
HOTEL DENNIS
Atlantic City, N.J.
Mr. Otzenberger was
formerly Chef for G.
W. Vanderbilt in Paris,
London and New York.
CREAM OF ASPARAGUS Put four ounces of butter in a sauce pan. When very hot add one pound of the tender parts of asparagus and fry colorless on a brisk fire. Moisten with two quarts of chicken broth and when done drain and mash. Then pass through a fine sieve. Add one pint of veloute sauce, color with some spinach greens, season with salt, sugar, nutmeg and when serving thicken the soup with a raw egg yolk diluted in cream and work in two ounces of butter. Serve separately some croutons souffles made out of pate a chou rolled in flour and fried in hot fat, or asparagus tips may be served instead of the croutons.
CLARIFIED CHICKEN CONSOMME
Put into a soup pot five quarts of white chicken broth, add one pound chicken legs and a small knuckle of veal. Boil and skim. Put in two pounds of roasted, unbrowned chicken bones, one leek, one carrot, one onion stuck with a clove, a little parsley and celery roots; boil continually for three hours. Chop very fine one pound veal, mix in two whole eggs, dilute with one quart of cold broth and stir this in the consomme, using a whip. Salt it according to taste and strain through a silk sieve.
PUREE OF CUCUMBERS Remove the seeds from two pounds of peeled cucumbers. Blanch them for a few minutes in boiling salted water; drain well. Mince and fry in four ounces of butter, then moisten with sufficient veal or chicken stock and reduce until all the broth is absorbed. Pound them in a mortar, adding a pint of very thick cream sauce. Press through a sieve, heating the puree and adding two ounces of butter before serving.
57
World Famouj1 Cher/1
_J
LOUIS PFAFF
CHEF DE CUISINE
NEW WILLARD HOTEL
Washington, D. C. Mr. Pfaff was for- merly at the following prominent New York City hotels. The St. Denis, The Union Square, The Albemarle, TheVendome.The New Amsterdam; also at the Royal Moskoko at On- tario, Canada.
STRAINED GUMBO
Chopped onions, green peppers, ham, okra cut in one inch lengths; saute. Add chicken broth, half a dozen peeled tomatoes cut in quarters. Season to taste.
CLEAR GREEN TURTLE
Sever head and cut up turtle in pieces and boil until done. Remove bones, cut in square inches and reduce stock until it becomes strong. Add some good Sherry.
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58
Their Special SouR5&CoflsowME5
JULES KOHLER
CHEF DE CUISINE
HOTEL ADLON Berlin, Germany Monsier Jules Kohler came to the Adlon from the most elegant and famous Restaurant in Paris, the "Cafe de Paris. "
CONSOMME JACOBINE
Prepare a strong consomme, rich in meat and lots of celery. Garniture of Royal cut lozenges, fine juliennes of red carrots, fine round cut pimentos and a little chervil.
MOUSSELINE SICILIENNE
(Sicilian Mousseline Soup)
Cream of chicken soup to which add two ounces of white mushrooms, and a little lemon flavor; pass through a strainer, then let cook for fifteen minutes and add a quarter of a pint of cream and four yolks of eggs. Strain through cheesecloth and add one ounce of butter. Garni- ture, half an ounce ground pistache well sifted.
NEBAC
CONSOMME
Usual consomme to which, for each quart of consomme, add one and a half ounces fresh truffles in order to obtain a strong truffle flavor. Garnish with truffles cut julienne style, the same of smoked ox tongue and serve.
59
World Famous Chert
LUCIEN FUSIER
CHEF DE CUISINE
GRAND HOTEL METROPOLE
Interlaken, Switzerland Mr. Fusier was for- merly at the Shep- heard's Hotel at Cairo, the Grand Hotel du Louvre at Menton, France, Hotel Schwei- zerhof at Interlaken, Switzerland; Tunisia Palace, Tunis; the Yongfraublick Hotel at Interlaken, Switzerland, and at the Cap Hotel, Bordighera, Portugal.
CONSOMME ANDALOUS
Broth of fowl besprinkled lightly with julienne vegetables, chopped carrots and coarse grains of wheat cooked in the consomme.
£
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^CH^d-^C^-
60
Their Special 5ours & Coitsommes
VICTOR HIRTZLER
CHEF DE CUISINE
HOTEL ST. FRANCIS
San Francisco, Cal.
Mr. Hirtzler was born in Strasbourg, Alsace, Germany, and learned his profession under Emile Feypell in Strasbourg who is considered one of the finest Chefs in France. Mr. Hirtzler has been in the best hotels in France and Germany. Coming to the United States he started in at the Old Brunswick in New York City, and then at the Waldorf Astoria, New York City , then at Sherry 's famous Cafe, New York City. He came to San Fran- cisco to open the Hotel St. Francisinl904.
flavored. Just befoi choke bottom, one dry sherry.
CREAM OF TOMATO SOUP, ST. FRANCIS
Put a shinbone on the stove with a large sized soup bouquet, adding plenty of salt. Start with cold water and cook very slowly on the back of the stove until the meat drops from the bone. Drain the broth through a cheesecloth. Cool and skim off the surplus fat. Add the contents of a can of good solid tomatoes, boiling with the stock for about half an hour. Strain through a sieve and put on to boil, thickening with corn starch or flour, the former making a lighter, daintier puree. Just before serving, add a quarter-pound of butter and half a pint of sweet cream.
VELVET SOUP
Mince up fine the red part of a few good carrots, stew them with butter, salt, sugar and a little broth and when done strain through a sieve. Put a quart of clear broth on to boil, mix in with four tablespoonfuls of tapioca, let stand for twenty-five minutes on the side of the fire, skimming it off well. At the last moment, add the carrot puree, season, boil up once or twice more and serve in a soup tureen.
CONSOMME ADELE
Make an extra fine beef consomme, well e serving, cut into strips like matches one aiii- trufrle and half a banana, adding also a glass of
CHICKEN BROTH L'ORANGE
Make a well flavored chicken broth and serve in cups. Take a slice of orange, leaving the skin on, and cut it into four pieces, putting one piece in each cup.
61
WORuTi^OlL/1 ChERjT 21
CREAM OF CHICKEN HORTENSE
Make a cream of chicken soup in the usual way. To a quart of the puree, take a cup of peeled almonds. Pound into a pulp or grind in a mortar, mixing with milk, thoroughly pulverizing the nuts. Strain and add to the soup.
CLAM BROTH
For six persons or so, take about five pounds of clams. Wash and put on to boil with a pint of water, a few sticks of celery and a bunch of parsley. Cook for ten minutes. Drain and strain. This makes about a quart and a half of juice. If necessary, add salt, also a bit of cayenne. To each cup add a big spoonful of whipped cream. Very dainty and generally liked.
PUREE OF SPLIT PEAS
One pound of green split peas, soaked in cold water over night. Drain and put into pot with two quarts of bouillon or soup stock. It is possible to use water, but this, of course, does not make rich puree. Add two onions, two ounces of leeks, two ounces of carrots, one pound of raw ham bone or a quarter pound of bacon. Boil until the peas melt , which takes about an hour. Remove the vegetables and the bone, strain the peas through a sieve, add two ounces of butter, and serve boiling hot.
PRINCESS SOUP
Thicken some soup stock or consomme with the yolks of two eggs, but do not boil. Add them after taking from fire, when still hot, but not boiling. Cook some carrots and turnips in salt water on the side, cutting the vegetables in lozenge-shaped bits and add just before serving.
CREAM OF POTATO SOUP
Slice four potatoes into a quart of bouillon. Cover tightly to prevent the escape of the aroma of the bouillon. Boil until the potatoes
62
Theie Special Soup^&Cootfies
are soft. Strain though a seive. Add a pint of thick cream and three ounces of butter. Serve with croutons .souffle.
63
INTERNATIONAL COOKING LIBRARY
By the World Famous Chefs
Complete in Ten Volumes
Vol. No. 1 Salads and Salad Dressings " " 2 — Dainty Sweets (Ices, Creams, Jellies and Pre- serves)
3 — Ultra Select Dishes for Afternoon Teas
4 — Chafing Dish Specialties
5 — International Dessert and Pastry Special- ties
6 — Bread and Pastry Recipes
7 — Soups and Consommes
8 — Fish, Oysters and Sea Foods
9 — Roasts and Entrees 10 — Relishes, Garnishings and Finishings 11 — Steaks, Chops and Eggs 12— Table Decorations
EACH BOOK COMPLETE
This is undoubtedly the finest, most complete and most select set of books ever published in the culinary line. The special dishes of the World Famous Chefs, United States, Canada and Europe. Forty-seven contributors.
Price 50 cents per volume — NET
Sold by dealers everywhere or mail orders to
INTERNATIONAL BOOK PUBLISHING CO. Los Angeles, Cal.
64
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INTERNATIONAL COOKING LIBRARY
By the
World Famous Chefs
( !ornp!ete in Tea Volumes
Vol. No. 1 Salads and Salad Dressings
2 Dainty Sweets (Ices; * reams, Jellies and Pre
3 Ultra Select Dishes for Afternoon Teas A Chafing Dish Specialties 5 International Dessert and Pastry Special
ties 6 - Bread and Pastry Recipes Soups and Consommes Fish, Oysters and Sea Foods Roasts and Entrees Relishes, Garnishings and Finishings Steaks, Chops and Eggs Table Decorations
7
8
9-
1(1
11
12
EACH BOOK COMPLETE
This is undoubtedly the finest, most con ad mog
select set of ; bed a tin* Hi
i.l dishes of the World Famous Chefs, United
ada and Europe. Forty
Price 50 cents per volume -NET Sold by dealers everywhere c mail or
INTERNATIONAL BOOK PUP Los Angeles, Cul.
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